Thursday, November 8, 2007

Adrienne's Pizza Bar...Certainly Hip to Be Square


Anyone who has ever been able to bear a few minutes in my presence, has probably heard me reference Adrienne's Pizza Bar in some way shape or form (probably just as "Adrienne's"). As a self-proclaimed pizza junkie, I've been diligent in my quest to enjoy, or in some instances, experience, the vast pizza selection New York City has to offer. So far my pizza adventures have at their worst, left me disappointed, and at their best driven me batty with joy at what I had just consumed; and while I have yet to critique the veteran players in the NYC pizza scene such as Lombardi's, Arturo's, and John's (I will soon), I must mention these powerhouses because I want to emphasize that as much as I enjoy them all, I may very well enjoy the "Old-fashioned" square pie at Adrienne's the most.


The restaurant is located on Stone St, a bit south of Wall St at the lower tip of Manhattan in the Financial District. Cobble-stoned of course, narrow, and almost entirely occupied by eateries, this strip of real estate screams old New York in a part of Manhattan that will forever represent 20th century capitalism at its finest. Inside, the long and narrow dining room is sleek and modern, peppered with high tables and stools in the front and back connected by a full bar and long bench seating in the middle, creating a relaxed yet upscale atmosphere that is anything but pretentious.


Not surprisingly, the simple menu features two types of pizza, round and "old fashioned", in addition to a handful of salads, antipasti, panini, and "Piatti Al forno" or "dishes from the oven." The round pizza is closer to a traditional Italian pizza, sporting a thin crust, with minimal amount of tomato sauce, and moderately covered with fresh ingredients so as to not take away from the fresh cheese and dough. Albeit tasty, I have only ordered the round pie once in the dozen times I've been here because it is the "old-fashioned" pie that stole my heart and refuses to give it back. The "old-fashioned" pie is square, or what I like to call, "Grandma style" pizza, cooked in a square sheet pan, at high heat the way my grandmother used to make it. Unlike anything you can get anywhere else in Manhattan, the pie's dough, at about the same thickness of a traditional slice at John's or Lombardi's, packs a yeasty, semi-sour tanginess that screams freshness. The airy dough browns evenly on the bottom while absorbing the salty cheese and semi-sweet red gravy goodness (yes it's gravy not sauce) on the top. Every bite allows you to enjoy the top-quality ingredients together in tandem with perfectly cooked dough that would do just fine on its own. This pie embodies the perfection and simplicity of homemade sheet pizza, and Adrienne's has gloriously resurrected what I consider to be a lost art among today's hackneyed pizza scene.

While I've yet to venture into much of the menu outside of my beloved square pie (you can't blame me), I did have the chance to try the homemade meatballs that are a fairly new offering from the kitchen. The meatballs were moist, cheesy on the inside (the way they should be) and packed just enough so they didn't crumble when you tried to cut them with your fork. They come out resting in a thin layer of the red gravy they had to have been cooked in. This dish was outstanding and a wonderful diversion from the over-sauced, overcooked lumps of dryness most restaurants pawn off as meatballs. I was beginning to worry that the art of the meatball had gone by the wayside, but Adrienne's has compelled me to think otherwise.

Lastly, if you want to avoid any sort of long lines as I always do, I would avoid popping in at lunch hour during the week as the place is mobbed with suits and hungry tourists who seemingly make the mistake of ordering the round pie over the square (rookies!). Your best bet is to drop by before 8 on a weeknight or for lunch on the weekend and enjoy having the place almost all to yourself. Say hello to my friend Mamoun, and tell him Vinny sent you for a square pie and an order of the meatballs, he'll most definitely take care of you. You won't be disappointed and Grandma would be proud.

Report Card:
Food - A
Ambiance A- (can get cramped at busy times)
Service A- (avoid the busy lunch hour when things are hectic and a bit hurried)

Adrienne's Pizza Bar
54 Stone St
New York, NY
212-248-3838

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

I keep reading your review and the pie tastes better each time! This is my next stop in the City.

Anonymous said...

Can't wait to go!