Go Ahead...Ushiwakamaru...I Dare You

It has recently occurred to me that I, as the Ubereater, have yet to write about sushi in any sort of capacity thus far. A fact that is much more a result of feasibility than likability. Ironically, it was as a Sushi Scout for Chicago's Red Eye, that the beginnings of the Ubereater would take root. (Photo's Here)

Probably the most sensible reason behind my silence on the sushi experience in the City is that I simply haven't been eating a lot of stuff since I moved back to NYC. And, I would argue, for good reason.

It seems to be the case, at least in my mind, that the New York sushi scene is somewhat of a microcosm of the pre-Obama American socio-economic continuum - on one end, the very distinct, but undeniably exquisite upper class - think Nobu, Morimoto, and Blue Ribbon - and on the other, a bulging mass of the nameless bourgeoisie - think Midtown at lunchtime - that clamor to stay perilously balanced along the wobbling poverty line.

So what am I getting at? Well, frankly, on the high end, I think the Sushi scene is New York is a little too fancy for its own good, and on the low end, its reputation is at stake. Unlike Chicago, a city teeming with middle-ground, self-improving BYO sushi spots offering an enticing combination of value and quality, New York seems to be uninhabitable land for the down-to-earth sushi experience. Pardon the pun, but it's feast or famine in terms of sushi selection in New York - either you embrace the opulence of $80 plates at Nobu, or you're hunching over a pre-made, pre-sliced thoroughly-refrigerated Spicy Tuna roll from some obscure, thrice-shuttered Midtown lunch spot that happens to also serve Buffalo Wings and Roast Beef on Thursdays.

Obviously I don't fault New York for its gazillions of hole-in-the-wall gems - these are the lifeblood to my calling - but this format is just not conducive to sushi from my perspective. I need more. I need something fulfilling and uplifting. I don't want to see soysauce-stained paper-menus and complimentary miso soup. I'm oh so tired of the hackneyed all-you-can-eat gimmicks, and early-bird special teasers that have cursed the mid-range sushi market. These are vapid visions of a sushi eating experience not yet found in my eyes here in New York. Somewhere along the line, sushi's valiant journey from novelty, to cultural movement, to annoying trend, to bastardized business concept is nothing short of remarkable, if not entirely disappointing. And yet this does not at all mean that greatness no longer exists.

Can it be true that above-average quality and undeniable value remain forbidden to marry in this liberal culinary landscape of ours?

In one word: Ushiwakamaru.

What?

In one short meal, my aforementioned diatribe of disdain directed towards decrying the dearth of value-packed sushi in New York City, is for all intents and purposes, now moot - thanks to Ushiwakamaru in Greenwich Village.

Located on Houston Street between MacDougal and Sullivan Street, Ushiwakamaru's metallic facade and dim lighthing are easy to miss, as you descend below street-level into this sub-terranean den of deliciousness.

The space itself is fairly small, but not at all cramped, and quite cozy - split almost evenly between 2 rows of tables on one side - and the bar on the other. There is a certain element of maturity to this place that right off the bat, turns me on. Cue the trio of riotous, sake-soaked Japanese men gabbing with the sushi zen master behind the counter, and I was eerily comfortable here - even if I was the weird 6'1" Italian guy wearing sweat pants and sneakers.

The menu is well-varied, though in terms of maki rolls, which Meghan and I often stick head for first, the selection is limited to maybe 6 - 8 classic preparations. You wont' find any "Alaska" or "Philadelphia" rolls here - instead the rolls are simple and to the point. We ordered 4 maki rolls, each unique unto its own right, each absolutely wonderful.

The rolls came out in succession, and the timing was much needed. The Pickled Radish (below) was my way of starting things off with a little bit crunch. A wonderful texture and subtle tartness of the radish suited the beginning of the meal well, especially at only $4.


The Spicy Tuna (below) is EASILY the best that's ever crossed my lips. Tender, perfectly constructed, and not overworked, this is a much needed reminder of why we all started eating sushi in the first place. It's a shame the Spicy Tuna roll is now the Double Cheeseburger of the Sushi world, but that doesn't mean Ushiwakamaru's version still isn't enlightening, and addictive. Because it is, and at $9, more than fairly priced.


As much as I loved the Spicy Tuna, the Fatty Tuna (below, $10) was just unreal. These morsels of wonder literally melted in your mouth, sporting a slight sweetness that went perfect with a dab of wasabi, which was REAL wasabi by the way, not that stuff that looks like mint toothpaste. Though not usually my first point of interest, I can't ignore how well constructed The Fatty Tuna roll was. Tight enough to stay together when you pick it up, but not so overpacked that you have to chew what you're eating. The flavors spoke volumes to the quality of the fish, the texture screamed it. The fish was the freshest I've ever tasted.


Rounding out the meal was the Soft Shell Crab roll which arrived as wider, more thinly-sliced discs of still-warm, lightly-battered soft shell crab, enveloped by tangy sticky rice. Crunchy on the interior, and silky smooth everywhere else, this was the exemplar of a roll I order almost everywhere I go. Simply oustanding.

Honest digs, a soft-spoken, accommodating waitstaff (who all wear kimonos by the way), and a jocular chef all come together to make Ushiwakamaru THE sushi experience I had been longing for since I moved back East.

Let it be known that humble homey spot on Houston Street is not "cheap" in today's polluted sense of the word, which usually implies exceptional quantity at ridiculous cost, but instead, embodies to the fullest degree of a concept that seems to have eluded the our City's saturated sushi world. That conept of course being VALUE.

So, go ahead, Ushiwakamaru...I dare you.

Ushiwakamaru (map it)
Food: A (subtle, yet incredible flavors without compromising texture)
Ambiance: A (the most comfortable I've been to date in NYC when out for sushi - warm, homey and welcoming)
Service: A (helpful, accomodating, fluid to the point of non-existent - masters at the craft)
In a thought: Hands down the most exciting and heartwarming sushi experience to date in the City.