Given the fact that I essentially live across the street from Minetta Tavern, I have, albeit rather nonchalantly, been keeping tabs on its progress. Easily the most anticipated opening of the year thus far, this fully renovated landmark, the latest brainchild of Keith McNally, the man behind the brunch bombshells Balthazar, Pastis, and Schiller's, has caused quite a stir within the culinary community.
That said, there are perks to living on MacDougal Street that span far beyond being able to crush a $4 Falafel at Yatagan's at 3 in the morning - and one of them is knowing when Minetta Tavern would finally be open to the public. Tonight it was. And I was there.
There is nothing on the the outside of the new Minetta that would indicate it's actually open. The old neon sign still hangs precariously over the corner of Minetta Lane and MacDougal, shining brightly as if completely unaware that it not only proudly introduces New Minetta, but also celebrates Old Minetta.
Inside, the space is dim, tight and quaint. Old time jazz and parlor music hums in the background amidst bustling chatter at the regal mahogany bar that lines the narrow front room of long narrow space, neither separating itself from the dining room area in the back, nor ignoring it either. The black and white checkered floor agrees with the black-paneled walls which are covered thoroughly with pencil-sketched caricatures of various male and female personalities from yesteryear.
The decor is impeccable - focused and relevant without seeming "themed" or deliberate. It actually feels cool in here. I was beginning to feel at home as I reveled in knowing that so much effort had gone into making something new, feel old, in a new way.
Keeping it short, Meghan and I ordered the Minetta Burger and the Pat LaFrieda "Black Label" Burger respectively; hers (the 1st picture below), a more buxom, rotund, and generally impressive specimen than my own, arrived topped with an oozing melange of cheddar and caramelized onions, on a flaky, brioche-type bun. Meanwhile, my "Black Label" Burger (2nd below) was remarkably small, almost diminutive, arriving on the same type of buttery flaky bun that in this case, completely overwhelmed the ridiculously small patty.
In all honesty, the "Black Label" Burger although tasty and cooked medium rare as I had requested, was WAY undersized, and entirely hidden by the large doming bun. At a whopping $26 dollars, I actually was astonished at how small and impish the thing was. Of course the sprawling helping of pommes frittes that accompanied it didn't help in this department either. That in mind, Meghan's Minetta Burger, almost 40% cheaper at $16, packed 100% more punch in terms of flavor, texture, and overall ability to satiate the mind and body. No doubt a far better burger for a much better price.
Ounce for ounce, penny for penny, the Minetta Burger destroys its super-uber-gourmet counterpart. Furthermore, and I don't think I'm being unreasonable here, If I'm going to spend $26 on a hamburger, it had better change my life in some way shape or form, otherwise I just feel stupid and cheated. Sadly, Minetta's incarnation of the now famous La Frieda "Black Label" burger meat, despite all its hype, severely misses the mark. I blame this not on the meat itself, but the overall presentation and extent to which it is used. I implore Mr. McNally to be a bit more liberal with his portions and discard the "less is more", check that, "less is enough" approach. It's frustrating and unnecessary - and of course incensing when you have to cough up almost $30 for it. Mind you I say this after blowing $18 bucks on 2 poached eggs perched atop Polenta at Balthazar on Sunday. I may be a little bitter - it was good, but once again not worth the money.
That said, outside of the burgers, the rest of the menu is categorically French, featuring a handful of classic Bistro dishes that seem more haughty than hunger-inducing, though the steaks from the "Grillade" sound promising. To that end, the entire ambiance is unequivocally French, almost too French in fact. I generally appreciate the bistro feel, as well as the extremely accommodating staff, yet I wonder if the new Minetta is a bit too prissy for its own good, maybe trying too hard to cull the calls of the elite with foie gras and steak tar tar, without simultaneously offending the earthly desires of the traditional downtowners who seek nothing more than a burger that will make them feel good about themselves.
In the end, I must return to Minetta in the near future. Having been its unofficial soft opening I can only expect that adjustments to the menu and modifications in the portions will take place, hopefully inducing change for the better.
In the meantime, this be the last time I spend $26 on a burger. That much I can assure you.
Minetta Tavern
113 MacDougal St (@ Minetta Ln)
212-475-3850
Food (Burgers): B (Only had the two burgers on the menu, both of which were good, neither of which was amazing)
Ambiance: B- (Old-fashioned speakeasy meets French Bistro that seemed just a tad stuffy for the 'hood)
Service: A- (attentive, if not overly attentive, bordering on obsequious- though we did feel as though they were miffed by our decision to pass on cocktails - that I didn't like)
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